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  • Bee Hive building & a place to share howto's on equipment
Bee Hive building & a place to share howto's on equipment
 #7939  by Chrisbarlow
 24 Jun 2020, 21:29
Steve 1972 wrote:
24 Jun 2020, 19:59
Dear lord 25C here today and the solar wax melter is on over drive in the greenhouse...i think i need to build a bigger one as i can not keep it topped up..
Surely that's cheating putting it in the greenhouse 😂😂😂
 #7950  by AdamD
 25 Jun 2020, 10:57
A double hive stand with built-in landing board is a good idea Liam. Not seen one like that.
I notice there's the nuc which is 'cold way' and the hive that's 'warm way' (The direction of the frames to the entrance). Any reason for the change?
And more generally, Why do some beekeepers use cold and others warm?
 #7951  by AndrewLD
 25 Jun 2020, 11:40
AdamD wrote:
25 Jun 2020, 10:57
A double hive stand with built-in landing board is a good idea Liam. Not seen one like that.
And more generally, Why do some beekeepers use cold and others warm?
Built-in landing board? Sorry , can't agree. A double stand IMO should have enough space between the two to put a third between. So much more flexible for uniting (Nigel mention putting a NUC next to a hive last week). Plus you can shunt hives along when doing floor changes etc. But each to their own. I had some fixed landing boards and then got some floors with landing boards, then the fixed became a nuisance. Plus, bees use their nasanov glands to mark the entrance to the hive and that includes the landing board - not many people know that :D
As for warm / cold way - I know there were various arguments for against but surely the biggest factor is access? If you have to work the hive from the side then cold way is obvious unless you want to keep reaching across?
 #8160  by Chrisbarlow
 09 Jul 2020, 15:40
nealh wrote:
27 Jun 2020, 13:03
I made up UFE's with the entrance at the third seam and added a small 60mm Correx UFLB at an angle so nothing protrudes.
Is it a design you've used before? And do you prefer under floor entrances?


I have an old Yorkshire Heather floor that's seen better days but i don't know if it's a superior design to a bog standard front entrance
 #8165  by nealh
 09 Jul 2020, 23:54
Never used before , winter is good time to look over kit to see what might need replacing or modifying.
In my case I had various OMF's from about three vendors and some home made ones, none were uniform in timber size meaning all inserts were varied. So after perusing ideas for floors elected to go with a UFE design using 3 x 2 & 4 x 2 and making them myself, universal inserts and two vape inserts for pan type.
Also I don't like protruding LB's so incorporated a simple angled one that is set back by about 5- 10mm up towards the UFE.
The bees have taken to them nicely and for wasps it doesn't give an obvious direct line of flight to enter.

So far have seen little issues since adding the floors early April and the preference isn't mine but for the bees to decide, if they propolis the full width 8.5 - 9mm entrance then I will know they aren't keen on the full width. Like the OMF they seem to like them and don't propolis them where as if you put mesh above on the CB holes they propolis them to stop air flow/draught.
 #8169  by AdamD
 10 Jul 2020, 09:45
AndrewLD wrote:
25 Jun 2020, 11:40
I had some fixed landing boards and then got some floors with landing boards, then the fixed became a nuisance. Plus, bees use their nasanov glands to mark the entrance to the hive and that includes the landing board - not many people know that :D
As for warm / cold way - I know there were various arguments for against but surely the biggest factor is access? If you have to work the hive from the side then cold way is obvious unless you want to keep reaching across?
I too have noticed how the entrance is marked.

The suggestion for having the frames the warm way is that you can access the hive from the back. However that means you can ONLY gain access from the back or you are otherwise standing in the flight path of the returning bees. By standing at the side and having the frames the 'cold way' you don't have to lean over the whole hive and can move around the other side if your back aches.
 #8286  by Chrisbarlow
 19 Jul 2020, 11:05
Having had some new foundation jump out of frames in my trailer I'm trialling dripping hot wax along bottom bars and on the foundation to keep it a little more secure. Fingers crossed

Although a buddy suggested just a nail would do the trick as well.

I sometimes like things difficult :D
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