BBKA Forum

British Beekeepers Association Official Forum 

  • Bees don't die of the cold "Ever"

  • share the funny, scary & the completely stupid things you've seen & heard
share the funny, scary & the completely stupid things you've seen & heard
 #8740  by AdamD
 04 Sep 2020, 16:00
I guess it's fair to say that bees don't die of cold if they can keep themselves warm!

For isolation starvation, it's fair to expect that it's much less likely in a hive with some insulation compared to a ventilated hive (in the old-fashioned way) as an insulated home will allow the bees to move around more often to get food. And it's certain that an insulated hive will result in less food (calories) being consumed and consequently less work for the bees and a longer life.
 #8741  by NigelP
 04 Sep 2020, 16:22
A tip for those using Abelo poly hives/supers for overwintering in. I noticed a few of mine were letting in a little water this summer, and on checking found in every case there was a large build up of propolis/wax in places on the hard plastic edges. I figured it w as leaving a small enough gap that was enough to let a little water in. The poly equivalent of using matchsticks for ventilation ?wry grin/.
These edges (top and bottom) need a good scraping to remove any gunk before putting on any crown-boards/supers etc. This seems to cure it.. If you have one of the new types that has a flush roof, be extra careful with the crown board.

On a separate note, I have one clear perspex crown board that will go on one of my hives this winter (with a poly crown board above), means I can have a quick peek when I need a bee fix.
 #8748  by Chrisbarlow
 04 Sep 2020, 21:18
JLRs The Bees Knees wrote:
02 Sep 2020, 21:48
A UK commercial beekeeper in another forum I use jumped on a comment I made about my experience of losing bees due to the cold over the years.
You get many views on forums, this is great as it broadens and challenges your views around beekeeping and you can learn an awful lot that you wont get from any local association or their members. You should keep reading them all because they all contains some real gems of information. Whether you agree with this commercial bee keeper or not doesn't matter, that person made you think about your own experience of losing bees and if you can improve upon it. This can only be a good thing. The other British forum is brilliant and so are the American ones. I prefer the American forums because you get some really diverse ideas that generally British bee keepers don't provide.
 #8753  by AdamD
 05 Sep 2020, 09:58
NigelP wrote:
04 Sep 2020, 16:22
A tip for those using Abelo poly hives/supers for overwintering in. I noticed a few of mine were letting in a little water this summer, and on checking found in every case there was a large build up of propolis/wax in places on the hard plastic edges. I figured it w as leaving a small enough gap that was enough to let a little water in. The poly equivalent of using matchsticks for ventilation ?wry grin/.
These edges (top and bottom) need a good scraping to remove any gunk before putting on any crown-boards/supers etc. This seems to cure it.. If you have one of the new types that has a flush roof, be extra careful with the crown board.
I see propolis build-up on the crown boards of WBC's too as there's no weight to keep them down. As soon as there is a small gap, it gets sealed up by propolis of course, but as the board is removed, the gap changes slightly every time so you finish up with a large amount of propolis biuld-up so the board does not fit at all. (They occasionally warp too). This doesn't really happen with National hives where there is the weight of the roof on top which keeps a tight seal.
 #8755  by AndrewLD
 05 Sep 2020, 11:53
AdamD wrote:
04 Sep 2020, 16:00
For isolation starvation, it's fair to expect that it's much less likely in a hive with some insulation compared to a ventilated hive (in the old-fashioned way) as an insulated home will allow the bees to move around more often to get food. And it's certain that an insulated hive will result in less food (calories) being consumed and consequently less work for the bees and a longer life.
I go for belt & braces although those with many hives would think it too much...
A super left on, a square of 25mm cellutex (?) insulation board on top of the crown board and once the first frost appears or is forecast, I wrap the hive in a closed cell mat - but I leave the insert board out. The hive stands are designed to provide the equivalent of an eke under the hive that is the depth of a super (so they are out of the wind). It has been suggested by one German beemaster that a tile should be lent up across the entrance hole to prevent the wind whistling in - not tried that!
I have always been told that it is damp that kills the bees not cold so I am reluctant to seal them in; although I have heard that the bees drink the condensation??????
 #8760  by huntsman.
 05 Sep 2020, 16:09
Andrew; ' although I have heard that the bees drink the condensation??????'

Bees will use condensation to dilute their honey if they can't get out and perhaps even if they can.

Main issue is not allowing condensation to drop down onto the cluster. I slightly tilt my hives so any condensation runs to the front. My hives are 'cold way' and I use glass crown boards with a square of carpet for top insulation.
 #8764  by Patrick
 06 Sep 2020, 14:24
All my old books used to refer to the condensation in hives and sometimes mouldy frames, but I can’t say I have ever seen either in my hives on open mesh floors all year round.

Not that I am cracking open hives much in the winter but never noticed any visible condensation on crownboards when trickling oxalic for example. Wonder if it is more a solid floor thing?
 #8768  by AndrewLD
 06 Sep 2020, 17:02
Patrick wrote:
06 Sep 2020, 14:24
All my old books used to refer to the condensation in hives and sometimes mouldy frames, but I can’t say I have ever seen either in my hives on open mesh floors all year round.

Not that I am cracking open hives much in the winter but never noticed any visible condensation on crownboards when trickling oxalic for example. Wonder if it is more a solid floor thing?
As part of my research into the Asian hornet countermeasures I have been using Vita-Europe's Apishield floors on five hives. We don't have the Asian Hornet (yet!) so I am looking at durability and other aspects - such as by-catch. At the moment and after 3 years (?) I can report that they are fantastic against wasps but that ventilation is severely reduced (which echoes continental reports) and I have experienced mouldy brood frames - so I now take them off before winter.
 #8771  by NigelP
 06 Sep 2020, 17:17
I use Abelo poly hives and keep the poly varroa trays in for the winter (Equivalent of solid floors), but they do need regular cleaning as bees can't get through open mesh floor to remove their debris..
Never had any issues with mouldy frames etc, plus very little condensation either.
This might be a problem associated with using wooden hives.
I think it is important to state which hive types you are using as the differences between poly and wood are considerable and it's easy for people to get confused.
 #8775  by NigelP
 06 Sep 2020, 20:26
AndrewLD wrote:
06 Sep 2020, 17:02

As part of my research into the Asian hornet countermeasures I have been using Vita-Europe's Apishield floors on five hives. We don't have the Asian Hornet (yet!) so I am looking at durability and other aspects - such as by-catch. At the moment and after 3 years (?) I can report that they are fantastic against wasps
Andrew, how are you killing the wasps that end up inside the floors?